Roadmonster.org

The belt line trim on the 1992-1996 Buick Roadmaster Sedans is comprised of three different parts:

1) The Polished Stainless Steel Trim Base (1992-1994 Sedans) or Chrome Plated Plastic Trim Base (1995-1996 Sedans).

This is the wide chrome trim that completely encircles the car.

2) The silver painted plastic trim.

This is attached to the Stainless or Chrome Trim Base mentioned above.

3) The flexible plastic “chrome” trim on the top of the bumpers.

This is a thin chromed plastic strip on the top of both bumpers.

As my car is a 1994, I’ve got the polished stainless steel trim.

I just spent several days hand polishing this stainless steel, and it is in perfect shape.

The flexible plastic chromed trim on the top of the front and rear bumpers usually turns yellow and fades with age.

I’ve got a fix for this documented on my Restoration & Help page.

This post covers how I am going to restore the plastic painted portion of the belt line trim on my car.

I should mention that I have also covered how to properly reattach this silver painted plastic trim, as it has a tendency to loosen up and eventually fall off if not corrected.

See my Restoration & Help page for this information.

The painted plastic belt line trim on these cars can be problematic.

With age, it fades.

If the car is not garaged and is exposed to the elements all the time, this plastic trim can break down and erode.

This painted trim is also prone to scrapes and stains.

The silver painted trim on my car is in excellent shape for it’s age.

However, it does have some stains, it’s faded, and there are a couple of small areas where the rubber trim has just started to erode.

On the two pics above, you can see the edge of the plastic painted trim where I touched it up with silver paint.  The plastic started to erode there, and I stopped it, but it still needs proper attention.

I am doing the trim restoration myself.

Here is what I am going to use to re-paint the plastic portion of the trim:

Dupli-Color Bumper Coating.

When painting plastics, you need a special paint.  Specifically it needs to have a flex-agent in it so the paint doesn’t flake off if and when the plastic is flexed or bent.  Also, paint for plastics usually has adhesion promoters specifically formulated for plastics.

Here is what Dupli-Color says about their product:

“Dupli-Color® Flexible Bumper Coating renews and protects weathered or discolored bumpers, moldings and rub strips. This tough protective coating offers superior adhesion to thermoplastic rubber and polyurethane bumpers.”

Available Colors:

FB 105 Black
FB 106 Gray
FB 107 Tan
FB 108 Medium Silver
FB 109 Dark Charcoal

I am going to use either the Medium Silver or Dark Charcoal.

Not sure yet which one.

The belt line trim was originally much darker than it is now.

When I removed the front bumper over-riders, I saw how dark the original color was.  I just don’t know if I want to paint it the color it has now become, or take it back to the darker original color.

To repair the erosion at the ends of the trim near the rear license plate, I’ll be using this:

Bondo Bumper Repair Kit.

Basically, this is flexible urethane glue.

I’ll fill and finish the eroded spots with this, and then paint the trim with the Dupli-Color Bumper Coating.

The RoadMonster is having a lot of work done right now.

I am currently collecting all the parts and supplies I need for several different projects on the car.

I’ve got to get this trim all restored and repainted by May.

Stay tuned for pics of the whole process…

I am using this product on several areas on the RoadMonster:

Under the hood / engine bay, on the chassis, and even in the interior.

This stuff has an amazing finish.

It looks like black wrinkle powdercoat.

What is even more amazing is how easy this finish is to touch up, with excellent results.

Once I get the parts that I am having made back from the fabrication shop, I’ll document the process from bare metal to coated part.

Regarding the chassis…

…let’s just say that I plan on adding mirrors to the car show display.

On the interior parts…

…I am going to use the Duplicolor coating and then change the color to match the rest of the interior with Medium Gray Duplicolor Vinyl “Dye”.

I’ll document that modification as well.

Stay tuned…

Love it or hate it, we’ve got a lot of plastic in our lives.

Cleaning plastic parts is different than cleaning glass, metal, or painted surfaces.

A perfect example of this is the gauge cluster lens on any car you own.

Is yours scratched?

The scratches come from improper cleaning, dirt, dust, other contaminants, and just plain age and use.

Windex is bad for cleaning plastics, but that’s what most people will clean a gauge cluster lens with…

Maybe you own a convertible with a plastic rear window(s).

Has the window dulled and yellowed?

Eventually, they all do, if not properly cared for.

Windex should never be used on plastic convertible windows.

There are really good products out there for cleaning and polishing plastics.

Here are my favorites:

Meguiar’s Mirror Glaze #17 Clear Plastic Cleaner…

…and #10 Clear Plastic Polish.

Use the #17 Cleaner to clean the plastic part.

Follow up with the #10 Plastic Polish.

If you take your time, and follow the package directions, your plastic part will look like new.

And remember, keep the Windex away from your clear plastic parts!

One weak area on the 1990′s B-Bodies is the wiring.

This is especially true of the headlights, turn signals, etc.

One way to reduce the draw on the electrical system, and save the wiring in the steering column, is to upgrade from Standard Flashers to Electronic Flashers for the Turn Signals and Hazard Lights.

This is really easy to do.

Just pull out the old flashers under the dash, and install the new electronic flashers.

Some Buick Roadmaster owners have modified their tail lights to have additional bulbs.  This modification has been known to melt the wiring to the turn signal switch in the steering column.  Switching to electronic flashers is especially important if you do this modification, or you risk over-taxing, overheating, and melting the wiring in the steering column.

Autozone sells a Blazer brand electronic flasher that fits both the turn signals and the hazard flashers.  Blazer Part #FL32.  You’ll need two.

Now, go out and have fun with your new flashers!

Krytox is used to preserve weatherstripping.

I learned about Krytox from some Corvette guys.

Krytox is a “fluorinated grease” made by DuPont.

It “preserves and lubricates to prolong the life of expensive weatherstrip.”

I cleaned all the Roadmaster’s weatherstripping and applied Krytox back in 2003, and it’s STILL THERE!

It does not wash off, and my car gets washed A LOT.

Part of that time, three years in fact, the car was a daily driver.

All of the weatherstripping on my car looks and feels as good as new.

This stuff is expensive.

It costs about $50.00 for a two ounce tube.

That said, weatherstrips cost a lot more.

It doesn’t take much to treat a whole car, and you don’t need to apply it very often.

I have since used this on my daily driver which is a convertible.

All the seals on that car look like new as well, and it is eleven years old…

So far, I have completely treated two cars, and I still have some left in the original two ounce tube.

I am sold on this stuff!

Want to read more about Krytox?

Here you go:  DuPont Lubricants FAQ’s

It really is interesting to read about.

Krytox is sold here: Eckler’s Corvette

Wheelskins Leather Steering Wheel Covers are one of those products that are better than advertised.  I don’t find products like that very often.

I selected Red and Gray for my Roadmaster’s steering wheel.

The covers are available in many different colors.

The covers are also available in what Wheelskins calls “perforated” texture.  This is really more of a “dimpled” leather.

I prefer the smooth texture, as it’s a good match to the stock Buick Roadmaster leather interior.

The size for all 1990′s B-Bodies is AXX.

Installation takes about an hour.  The cover is sewn on.

(You don’t have to remove your steering wheel like I did in the pic above.  That’s a wheel, airbag, and shifter handle that I redyed.  I added the Wheelskins cover to the Roadmaster wheel after I was done restoring it.)

If you ever need another roll of waxed string and a needle, Wheelskins will mail you one free of charge!  Now that is good customer service!

I wear my mechanics gloves when sewing one of these on, as the string has to be pulled so tightly it seems like the leather will tear.  It won’t.

If you don’t wear gloves, your fingers will be very sore after the install.

I have these covers on every car I own.

Wheelskins Link

I like how these covers smell.  Mmmmmmmmmmm leather!

The “feel” of the Wheelskins cover is excellent.

Have a good day everyone!  I am gonna go get another cup of coffee…

Painting the washer and coolant tanks really cleans up the engine bay.

Some owners choose body / contrasting color paint on their reservoirs.

I chose to use Duplicolor Low Gloss Black Engine Enamel, as I wanted them to blend into the engine bay, and allow the engine to be the focal point…

Like any painting project, proper prep is key.

After emptying / removing both tanks, I cleaned them both with warm water and Dawn Dish Detergent.

The Pump was removed from the Washer Tank prior to cleaning.

After cleaning the tanks with Dawn, I gave them another good cleaning with Orange Blast Citrus Cleaner.

Then, I gave them another Dawn bath.

After the tanks were dry, I used SEM products prior to paint.

SEM Vinyl Prep was used to once again clean the exterior of the tanks.

Then I masked off the filler holes.  I masked off the whole threaded area on the coolant tank, and the very top of the filler tube on the washer tank, just where the cap connects.  The caps will rub off the paint where they connect, so you are better off just masking those areas.  The area on each tank that is going to be masked off is covered by the caps.

After masking, I was ready to paint.

Almost…

A light mist of SEM Sand Free was applied to both tanks.

While still wet, I proceeded to paint both tanks with the Low Gloss Black Engine Enamel.

I painted these tanks about six years ago, and they still look great.

Some people might ask “why paint the tanks?” because it will make checking fluid levels difficult.

Well, that is ALMOST true.

However, the coolant tanks on these cars, mine included, turn a milky yellowish color, and become opaque, so that point is moot.

I already had to check the coolant level when the car was cold.

In my opinion, the black tanks make the engine bay look better.

I really like Ceramic Coating, especially the finish called Chromex.

My exhaust headers and intake “T” pipe were coated in Chromex by Performance Coatings in Auburn, Washington.

Chromex has the appearance of highly polished aluminum.

This coating looks so good that I chose it for the intake pipe, which is the first thing people see when the RoadMonster is at a show.  I could have chosen chrome, powder coating, paint, etc., but I like this the best.

It looks amazing and does not require any maintenance.

The header coating keeps underhood temperatures lower.

I never have to worry about cooking my wiring or plumbing.

Uncoated headers WILL fry everything under the hood.

The plug wires, brake lines, A/C lines, wiring / looms, and everything else under the RoadMonster’s hood are doing just fine.

Performance Coatings has other Ceramic Coatings as well.

Their line of Satin Finish Ceramic Coatings can withstand 2000 degrees.

Performance Coatings Link

These guys do excellent work.

Let Performance Coatings help you beat the heat!

I am frequently asked about where to buy chrome hardware, so I thought I’d post this info here for everyone.

I’ve had really good luck with this company:

I have purchased a lot of hardware here and I’ve always received the order quickly and accurately.

Take a look at their website:

chromebolt.com

They have just about any chrome hardware you’ll ever need.

Since the RoadMonster was a daily driver for over twelve years, she showed wear and age in a lot of places.

As a result, I have gone through the car, step by step, refinishing, refurbishing, and reconditioning the car.

One section at a time…

One area was the cowl and wipers.  I had repainted the wipers, and they looked OK, but the whole cowl area just needed to be renewed.

So, I ordered a complete set of cowl trim, including all fasteners, windshield wiper arms, 9c1 wiper blades, and a rear hood seal.

The works!

(BTW…  Yes.  That is a red powder coated RAISS intake.)

After removing the original cowl trim, wiper assemblies, etc., I did a good cleaning.

Without the cowl, I was able to clean the windshield base and remove over a decade of accumulated crud that was otherwise inaccessible.

After everything was as clean as possible, the new cowl was installed with all new fasteners.  It looks great!

Then the new wiper arms and new 9C1 deflector style wiper blades were installed.  All beautiful perfect, minty-fresh, brand new GM parts.

The finished product.  Although it isn’t really noticeable, it is very clean.

This isn’t something that is gonna jump out at you because it looks good.

More importantly, it doesn’t look worn, faded, chipped, or dirty.

Little things like this make a car.  It’s all “attention to detail”.

Beautiful brand new 9C1 wiper blades and wiper arm assemblies.

Free from any rock chips.  Nice!

I really enjoy tackling parts of the car that are usually ignored by most people.  I know that 99.9% of people looking at the car will never notice how clean and nice the cowl on this car is…

…but I KNOW.

And that’s all that really matters.